I've taken quite a few photos over the past few months. That's why I thought it would be a good idea to write a blog post containing three tips that have significantly improved or made my way of photographing easier. Maybe it will help you too.
TIP 1: Checklist
Modern cameras have many settings that you as a photographer can change. Very nice of course, but I have noticed that this can sometimes work against you. For example, if you are in a hurry to quickly take that one photo or if you are not paying attention for some other reason, you may have overlooked an incorrectly set parameter.
For example, a while ago I went out early in the morning to photograph this nearby fen at sunrise.
Naturally, I used a tripod for this so that I could use a low ISO value to keep the amount of noise to a minimum. Now my camera also has the option to set a so-called AUTO ISO value. Very useful if you take photos without a tripod, because it allows you to set a minimum shutter speed to ensure that the photo is sharp. The camera then automatically adjusts the ISO value to get the correct exposure.
You can probably guess what happened that morning. My camera was still on the AUTO ISO setting, while I did not notice this. The result was a photo with an ISO value of 3200 instead of 160. I was able to remove the extra amount of noise this produced somewhat in Lightroom, but the quality of the photo is of course never what it could have been.
I have worked a lot with checklists for years. The word says it all: a checklist must ensure that no important matters are forgotten. That's how I came up with the idea of making a photography checklist for myself. And to make that checklist easy to remember, I use the mnemonic C5FC.
C stands for Composition
Have you found a topic that appeals to you? Then look for the best composition. If possible, look at the topic from different angles. Moreover, don't be easily satisfied, but look for (small) details that could be improved. For example, pay particular attention to the edges of the composition. I have recently experienced that what you leave out of the composition is often just as important as what you want to show in the composition.
5 stands for the exposure triangle + histogram + bracket?
I go through the three variables (aperture, shutter speed and ISO value) that influence the exposure and ask myself whether they are set correctly for the photo I want to take at that moment. Consider, for example, the desired depth of field, whether or not to use a tripod or the correct shutter speed for a possibly moving subject. I then check the final exposure that all this results in using the histogram and adjust it if necessary with the exposure compensation knob. And finally, I wonder whether an exposure bracket is desirable. I have set this on my camera to +/- 2 stops and so far this has proven to be more than enough.
F stands for Focus
What in the composition do you want sharp or out of focus? And what do you focus on to achieve this? Can I do all this with just one photo or should I take more photos with different focus points and merge them later to get the desired result? And what kind of autofocus mode works best in the situation at that moment?
C stands for Check
Once the photo has been taken, I check the result in the viewfinder or on the LCD screen of my camera. For example, is there something in the composition that I initially overlooked and can still correct at that moment? Are the white and black tones under control? I can also zoom in at the touch of a button and thus check the sharpness of (part of) the photo.
This checklist may not yet be complete, but these are at least the most important points that will significantly promote a good result.
TIP 2: Peak Design carrying straps
For a few years now I have been using some products from the Peak Design brand to carry my camera. I think the design of these accessories is really based on practice. In short, it means that depending on the situation, you can attach or remove the belt you want in a very easy and quick way.
The system uses small so-called anchor links that remain attached to the camera. You can literally attach the desired belt to it in just a few seconds. Not only very easy, but also super safe. Each anchor link has a load capacity of no less than 90 kg.
The shoulder strap itself has also been really well thought out. The quality of the material and the adjustable buckles is very good. The nylon belt is smooth on one side, making it easy to slide over clothing. On the other side, however, there are small rubber studs, which cause a lot of friction. So something for everyone.
In practice, you will soon come to greatly appreciate the practicality of this design. For example, if I am traveling with the camper and want to take a (short) walk somewhere with only my camera and no additional accessories, I attach the shoulder strap. If I then arrive at a location where I want to use a tripod, the same strap can be removed in just a few seconds.
There is also a wrist strap that you attach in the same way and is perfect for street photography, for example. You can then hold your camera continuously, so you are always ready for action, without any risk of dropping it.
There is even a small connector that you can attach to the base of a relatively large and heavy telephoto zoom lens, so that you can also attach the shoulder strap to it. Very handy!
TIP 3: Backbutton focus
My third and final tip concerns a different way of focusing using the so-called backbutton autofocus technique. Where you normally focus and print with the camera's shutter button, in this case you use a different button to first focus and then print in the 'normal' way. Current cameras often give you the option to assign various buttons to certain functions. That is exactly what you do with backbutton focus. You link a specific button on the back (hence the name backbutton focus) or on the front of the camera to the autofocus. Which button this should be is very personal and depends on the design of your camera and what you find most comfortable to work with. I chose the button circled below.
But why would you actually do this? There are a few advantages that this method of photography has:
Once you have focused on the subject, this focus will remain correct as long as the distance between you and the subject does not change. You can then easily adjust other settings between taking two photos, without having to refocus.
What I also really like is to focus this way, then determine the correct composition at my leisure and then print. Moving the autofocus point with a small button or joystick also works, of course, but this is much easier. Of course, be careful when photographing by hand with a very small depth of field. It is then easy to vary the distance to the subject slightly, which affects the sharpness.
Yes, it takes some getting used to focusing this way, but I assure you that it is absolutely worth it. On my Fuji X-T4 I set this as follows. I don't know if this is also possible with other brands, but it works perfectly for me.
To switch between manual, single and continuous autofocus on Fuji, there is an easy-to-use button on the front, so I don't have to delve into the camera's menus. My camera is set to manual focus by default with the focus assist mode 'Peak Highlights' set. The autofocus (with back button) also works in this manual mode. This way I have the best of both worlds, so to speak.
If I want to switch to single or continuous autofocus, I can do this in a fraction of a second with the aforementioned button. Not only useful for yourself if you want to quickly switch autofocus mode, but also for someone else who wants to take a photo, but does not know that he or she has to focus with a different button than normal.
You may already be using one or more of the tips mentioned above. If not, I really recommend you give them a try. Who knows, you may soon benefit and enjoy it as much as I do. Good luck!
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